either way you look at it...

be it Celsius or Farenheit, I'm going to die this summer...

It was almost 30 degrees C in Bhilai yesterday...translating to roughly 86 degrees F.

Oh, and in case you forgot, it's still January.

that is all.

a meeting, a field trip and a grand opening

I realize now that I have been in Bhilai for over four months (my, how time flies!) and haven't written a single entry about work. This my attempt to summarize what has happened in the past 4 months...

So, what do I do? Well, the formal definition...as an AIF fellow placed in Bhilai, my goal is to build the capacity of the regional NGO, BMSS, and help them reach the goal of training and placing 1000 underpriviledged dropout youth in jobs within the service sector in the next 2 years.

What I think this really means that I am supposed to act as their second official employee (the other employee is my mentor's nephew. No, not the 18 year old...although he is the official "email checker...") and help with the day to day of the training center-- mobilization of the youth in villages and slums (aka going door to door and convincing highschool dropouts to get off their butts and come to our center and make something of their lives, all in Hindi, mind you), talking with Business mentors to find job , practicing spoken English with the kids and being the official photographer of the center.

Sounds simple, right? Wrong.

Let me start from the beginning and try to keep this entry under a million words. Basically, my NGO (BMSS) is the regional implementing partner on a livelihood project. They are working with CAP Foundation (based in Hyderabad) and are funded by AIF (kind of my second NGO, sort of confusing, I know). So, these three NGO's are supposedly working together to run this project aimed at helping the urban poor in Bhilai and the village folk in Raipur (the "big city" aka the capital of Chhattisgargh) get jobs and start livelihoods.

What seems like a fairly straightforward project is actually a poorly constructed project with conflict built directly into it (this we found out recently as I am also helping AIF out on a project looking at employability training centers across India and trying to figure out how to revamp their current funding strategy). BMSS and CAP Foundation DO NOT get along. CAP views itself as superior because it has many training centers all over the country and BMSS views itself as a knowing everything and anything about the area because they have been around for 25 years. The project was designed in this way so CAP foundation could teach BMSS about the livelihood sector and how to run a successful employability training center. Unfortunately, there have been a lot of setbacks because of all this drama and often I am viewed as the "mediator, from AIF." My mentor is also a very interesting character in that she doesn't feel like BMSS needs to do anything until CAP does their part completely...which is just ridiculous because in this project both NGO's have to equally support their weight (BMSS is in charge of mobilization and CAP in charge of training and placing students, you can't have one without the other). Also, we are here for the kids, right? After realizing that getting involved with internal politics wouldn't lead to anything (which was an interesting process itself), I have been taking a much more proactive (and slightly pushy) approach to helping out...

After many months and over a two dozen attempts, I was finally able to organize a meeting between BMSS (aka the only official employee, Shailesh) and Sanjay (the coordinator from CAP, who I may or may not have a slight crush on...yes, this is a conflict of interest). The meeting went suprisingly well...I even made an agenda and am currently preparing minutes of the meeting...I hope we can continue to this down the road so we can coordinate the many different parts of the project (mobilization, training, job placement) and make it more efficient, organized and timely (but at the same time realizing that this is India).

Around the same time, Sanjay organized a picnic for the students to a nearby Temple and park. I convinced him to wait till I came back from midpoint and the two of us, along with the rest of the faculty, accompanied about half of the students a field trip. Highlights included: a potluck lunch with freshly prepared food from a handful of really nice mothers, an impromptu dance party in the middle of the street and the 499 pictures I took...

And just a few days back, Shailesh and I were riding around Bhilai on his motorcycle searching for job availabities (note, this isn't part of BMSS's role...but you just can't stop Shailesh) and we happened to stop by a new hotel that was being built. Unfortunately, after speaking with the manager, we were told that all the positions had been filled. After some small talk, the manager realized that I was from America and immediately invited me to a grand opening party next week as a guest of honor.

Oh my! How the tables have turned. In one week, a meeting, a field trip and a grand opening...the ups and downs at the employability training center, eh?

losing my religion?

Kisa: how is india?

me: it's good. i think i've given up on Hinduism though

Kisa: really? why? too superstitious and annoying

me: too many rules... so I went to the temple the other day because they were having a 24 hour reading of the Ramayan (The dance marathon of Hinduism, as some would call it) and it was at my mentor's temple, so I thought it would be a nice gesture

Kisa: hahahahah

me: one woman didnt get up or go pee for the entire time

Kisa: was it hard to understand the ramayana? did you get it?

me: oh no... i mean i was gossipping slash playing wih the little kids the whole. anyway so i went and they were serving food, so I decided to help out...it was really hard, people demanding more sabji, puris, etc. no pleases and thank you's

Kisa: hahahahha thats indo cutlure...not hinduism, you hate indos

me: no no that's not even the story...just wait. Then some priest yelled at me was like "You are holding the plate with your right hand and serving with your left hand. that is wrong" and i was like "Hey im servin yo ass" actually i didnt say that...but i was like thinking "ok ok dont yell." Anyway, so i trudged on and then i was cleaning up the plastic cups and was dumping the extra water into one of the cups and was thinking to myself "where should i dump this water?" and i thought to "there, over there, there's a plant that could use some water." So i dumped the water there not knowing...

Kisa: omg the tulsi! you dumped bad water into the tulsi?

me: ...that it was a shrine. how do you know tulsi? what is tulsi? omg. who are you?

Kisa: its this plant, that they beileive is god and there is an even once a year, im pretty sure its krishnas' bday where they put the tulsi on a swing and you swing it to "play with it"

me: omg are you serious? oh god!

Kisa: well they think its god so you give it only clean water, untouched...actually i think you give it water that has been holied or something...i dunno i havent seen a tulsi plant in forever

me: yeah but two guys were like yelling at me and someone was like "mafi mangho" like ask for forgiveness and i was like "i didnt know, im so sorry" and they were like yelling so i went and put my hands on the pot and head down. And then, I was like "i needa get outta here before I do something else wrong" and so I went to get my shawl from the other side and as I was standing up to leave, I hit my head on the bell. I think it was a sign from God. Three strikes and i was out. Literally. I left.

(This gchat convo was edited for grammar and punctuation, not for content. haha)

OHHHH, we're halfway there?

Wait, uh, seriously? Yes, seriously. I am sitting at the Nagpur train station after having spent the last week hanging out with the other AIF fellows at our MIDPOINT retreat. Midpoint? Midpoint! Wow.

Anyway, here are some memorable moments from midpoint.

- Comesum Restaurant, Nagpur Railway station. So, being in the middle of India (read: nowhere), I am of course the closest fellow to this said location. I was the first to arrive and am the last to leave (hence the blog entry after so many weeks). I also spent 11 hours at the Comesum on Monday helping greet arriving fellows and then 4 hours today saying goodbye. Oh, the comesum.

- Late night dance impromptu dance parties to destiny's child, Desi Girl and Tiffany's "I think we're alone now." Yes, the rumor is true, I even ripped my favorite linen pants gettin' low...altho it might have also been due to amount of rotis and aloo sabji I consumed over the course of the week.

- One of the most peaceful and definitely one of the most quiet places in India, Anandwan. I still have yet to figure out how to succintly summarize the place, aside from saying that it was founded by a very dedicated and passionate man, Baba Amante, whose mission was to help lepers, the physically handicapped and the economically challenged live lives of dignity...it feels as if Anandwan has become a sort of utopia for them, a place where they work hard and can peacefully enjoy the fruit of their own labor (Literally. Anandwan is full of farmland where they grow everything for the community except salt, sugar and kerosene).

- Hearing from the other fellows and learning about their respective projects and placements. Wow. Even though it can take a long way to get a little work done...a little work can go a long way, too.

- Nagpur. Nagpur is the geographical center of India--if you don't believe me, there is a small pillar in the middle of a small park, in the middle of the city, which is in the middle of India to prove it. See Rick's jumping snaps for proof.

I leave feeling re-energized with a renewed sense of purpose and excited to make the most of the next 6 months. Bring it on, India :)

Baap ray baap!

Note: I was asked to guest blog for Pooja this week, since she's out scooting the country.

I can’t say I did an enormous amount of research on India before Megan and I visited Pooja. But, you know, I prepared in my own little way. I read The Namesake, saw the trailer for Slumdog Millionaire, got my eyebrows threaded, and ate plenty of Trader Joe’s boxed Indian meals.

As it turns out, there was a lot about India I didn’t know. So, this guest blog post will serve as a PSA: Five Lessons Learned.

1. Imagine you find yourself at 10:00pm at a deserted gas station parking lot, waiting for a bus that no one around has ever heard of. Would you know how to convince the bus owner (whose phone number you have) to come pick you up? Pooja Bhatia sure did … by implying to the bus owner that we were writers for Lonely Planet. Um, sure. Within seconds a guy on a moped showed up and shuttled us to our bus. Lesson learned? The Lonely Planet isn’t just your tour guide, it’s your secret weapon.

2. You may think that while visiting India, you’ll be forced to use an Indian toilet. After five days of successful avoidance, I found myself in a precarious situation. I desperately needed to pee, we were at a historic fort, and all that was available were these holes in the ground that Indians call a toilet. After careful thought I decided it was urgent, and Pooja was caring enough to practice squats with me. Mid-squat, a small woman runs into the bathroom screaming: “Toilet for foreigners! Toilet for foreigners!” She unlocked the doors to the secret normal toilet tucked away in a corner. I swear it was sent straight from heaven. Lesson learned? Never give up the search for a normal toilet.

3. While shopping in India, you will undoubtedly get screwed. But this is ok, because even when you’re screwed, you’re paying like $2 for a scarf. However, once you start getting into fine jewelry, the bills can add up to $10, and so your approach requires a little bit more finesse. Like knowing how you can get everything you can from the store owner. Lesson learned? If you stall long enough, you’ll always be offered free Fanta.

4. After eight days of sight-seeing, we arrived in Mumbai. And we were very thirsty. After interrupting a Bollywood model party and having a bartender assume that we hadn’t heard of a Jaeger Bomb before, and give us a painstakingly long (and technically incorrect) description, we found ourselves at a disco club called Polly Esthers. Um, and yeah, it took me like 12 hours to get the irony. Anyways, onto the lesson. After several rounds of drinks and Pooja busting a move or two, she was surrounded by potential suitors. Because this is India, and not Rush & Division, they were actually really cute and nice, and not at all pushy. Until Pooja made one angry. Lesson learned? When you give someone a fake number, do not have your phone out so that they can clearly see that after dialing the number that your phone isn’t ringing.

5. So this post has two peeing stories. Deal with it. But this one’s quick. We once found ourselves at a roadside rest stop where the women’s bathroom consisted of a tilted slap of concrete, surrounded by a 3-foot brick wall, with a small hole carved into low corner. Splatter, central. So obviously we walked out to a field to pee right open on the Indian countryside. Of course, as is the case with bathroom usage in India, it’s never simple. Lesson learned? When peeing in the grass, make sure it’s not directly onto a dead goat.

In all seriousness, my visit to India was the trip of a lifetime. The main lesson I learned in India was that Pooja Bhatia is the most amazing tour guide you could ever hope for. She should charge. Seri. (Thanks too to Carolyn and Michael for sharing their apartments!)

And I’m out. Hope Pooja updates this soon with something much funnier and shorter.

- Jaim