Am I in america?

After 6 weeks of living in Bhilai, it was about time for a little vacay. I landed in Delhi last weekend just in time for Diwali, but instead of going straight home, I decided I needed a fix of American food at Mcdonald's in Khan Market...

2 hours later, I left the market with my Time Magazine, a brand new copy of Shantaram (in English, of course), a fresh mani/pedi, a stomach full of Mcdonald's french fries, a fountain diet pepsi in hand and a brand new pair of brown flats. Oh, and $40 less in my wallet.

I arrived home to my Chacha's house and was greeted left and right with "hellos" and "how are yous" and was tongue-twisted as I tried to switch from Bhilai "Hindi mode" to English. Out of the corner of my eye I saw a box of Kellogg's Special K and a case of Diet Coke and my brother typing away on his computer with a wireless internet connection. 

A few days later I walked down the street to the nearest market with my cousin, Geetu, and we noticed 3 brightly lit ACed coffee shops. On a whim, we strolled into Costa Coffee (apparently the most expensive) and ordered one cappuchino, one soy latte and a slice of chocolate cake. On the way back home, we ordered chicken calzones from Sbarro for delivery, as we passed a Subway and Ruby Tuesdays.

Where am I?  

There seems to be more of a difference between Bhilai and Delhi than Delhi and America. 

There's a greasy (but amazingly tasty) french fry for thought.

Pilgrimages, Pollution, Protoges and Perfection.

We went on a Pilgrimage to the Dongergard Temple. I think it was the first time I had ever been truly excited to go to a Hindu Temple (I had to include "Hindu" in that sentence because you all know how I feel about Wats!) Yes, I was very excited. In fact, when I was told I couldn't go because I was on my period, I got all emo and actually cried. You read that right, I cried. I cried because I couldn't go to the Dongergard Temple. There's one for the history books, eh? (I used to cry when mama bhatia would force me to go to the Temple on Sunday as a kid...isni't it ironic.) Anyway, the Temple was really pretty. Sitting on a hill, covered with lights and filled with thousands of Indian worshippers, this Temple has over 1000 steps (or an Indian cable car which was suprisingly sturdy, safe and efficient). Twice a year during Navratri, Hindu pilgrims come from all over Chhattisgargh and other nearby states by foot, walking sometimes over 100 km, barefoot and chanting hymns. Tents were set-up along the way by different community leaders and political parties (talk about buying votes, eh?). Hundreds of children, teens and adults were making their way to the Temple during Navratri and climbing to the top to give their praises to Durga. Quite a site. But even more impressive than the Temple, was probably the "vehicle" by which we went. My mentor's brother just purchased a new truck for his transportation business so obviously it had to blessed right away...so we all LITERALLY climbed into the front of the truck with the driver (who after insisting we stop for dinner and instead had a beer or two) at midnight and embarked on the 2-3 hour journey to the Temple. Sitting in the front of an Indian truck driving on an Indian highway (the highway connecting Mumbai and Kolkata) with a driver who has had a few drinks was probably one of the scariest experiences ever. We arrived at the Temple at 3:30 am, prayed to Durga and returned home at 9 am just in time for a day of work...but I went to sleep instead. My first all-nighter in Bhilai. What what!

The Bhilai Steel Plant (or BSP for those in the know) is the second biggest steel plant in all of India. It was built in the 60's (I think) with Russian Aid and is the single biggest employer of Bhilai. The entire industrial belt is full of subsidiaries dependent on the plant and of course families dependent on jobs. BSP is literally located about 1-2 km behind my Mentor's house...the house must be cleaned 2-3 times a day because of the dirt and the winters are never too cold because of the heat from the plant. If I don't die from the massive amounts of ghee in Indian food, then it'll surely be the pollution from BSP.

Moni and Babu- my two protoges. Ok, so maybe they are not the biggest brats EVER, but they are still pretty bratty and incredibly adorable. Moni, who often is called "Moti" because of her tummy, is obsessed with my iPod and speakers while Babu, who is given this nickname because he is the youngest in the family, won't stop turning on the headlamp, flashlight and digital camera. Ah, technology...bringing families together one battery at a time.

A pic of me on my scooty- perfection! With one minor collision already under my chunni, I still am not ready for the big kid highways...but the backroads, even though they take twice as long, are the perfect way to get from my new flat (as of 2 hours ago, woot woot!!!) to the office. And the second pic is of Kumari, the servant who cleans my Mentor's house. A typical Chhattisgarghian, with two noise rings, a tummy that hangs out of her printed sari and of course, a big heart.

photos from the motherland...part 1

Namaste, friends! I've been lacking on the photos so I thought I'd post a few. Some are from Delhi and then a couple from Bhilai...more to come this week! (think Pooj on a brand new pink scooty...get excited!)




My mentor's sister-in-law, Sanju, with her two nieces (the kids are the biggest brats EVER). This pic is from the best market in Bhilai called the Civic Center market...I recently discovered an orange internet cafe there (a step up from the malaria infested one I am currently at which really only has one computer) and a store called "Krazy Kool" where they sell everything from PEANUT BUTTER (I walked out with a $3 container) to DIET COKE to PRINGLES to RAGU SPAGHETTI SAUCE. Yes, I did find my personal heaven.



BHILAI! The view from my mentor's rooftop, aka third floor, aka my current living sitch. I deliberately didn't take a picture from the back of the balcony, which shows a view of the Bhilai Steel Plant...and the pollution...and Gary, Indiana...wait for part 2.



AIF Fellows at Kuki's, a small club in GK2, New Delhi. Yes, I had to lie to my relatives when they dropped me off at the restaurant for "dinner" and yes, I ran across the street to the "club" for "expat night" when they were walking back to the car. What a badass.



Bauji! (Aka my paternal grandpa). We sometimes refer to him as "Baumeister"...but I don't think he understands what that means.



My Chacha's daughter with my Nanima (aka my Dad's youngest brother's daughter with my maternal grandma). Actually my mom's side and dad's side of the family don't hang out but are forced to twice a year when someone from the States is visiting.




A group of Indo boys in a small village in Rajasthan. During orientation, we visited a Women's Self Help Group that was practicing microfinancing. Elected as a group spokesperson because of my "Hindi skills" I proceeded to tell the women how we were very excited to be there...not only in Hindi or English but I also managed to squeeze in some Spanish, as well. Que malo.




I'm sad to report that I have not seen any tigers as of yet. BUT, I did see lots of monkeys in Rajasthan. When I asked my mentor's family if there were any tiger sanctuaries nearby, they casually told me that the zoo was only a few kilometeres away. UM, sanctuary?!

Ten ways I know I'm in India...

10. I started eating rice + daal with my hands (and by this I mean, without a spoon...or a fork, I know...)

9. I fasted on the first day of Navratri (Indian festival of the week).

8. I wear a black bindhi every day (although it comes off within like 7 minutes).

7. I eat Indian food for breakfast (no, I don't mean India's version of eggs).

6. I threw trash in the backyard (sad, I know...but it had been sitting in my room for 2.5 weeks cus I didn't know what to do with it!) .

5. I have perfected the head nod (in between a "yes" and a "no")

4. I washed my own clothes today...by hand.

3. I carry a handkerchief, mase, toilet paper, hand sanitizer, immodium and mosquito repellent with me at ALL times.

2. I'm addicted to Lays "Magic Masala" flavored chips and Gems (India's version of M&Ms).

1. I am contemplating buying gold...